Siaurapjūklis Festool PS EQ-Plus | Kainos

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festool ps 300 eq kaina

I'm not sure of the purpose of the rear ducts on the runner in the photo at left. I'm going to be honest and tell you that I still don't know which one I prefer since each has its own merits. The secret is in the pendulum action. It is literally as easy as lifting the lever and inserting the blade and letting go of the lever to lock the blade into place. Pendulum action The pendulum or orbital action is engaged by moving the lever left near the blade mechanism. It also performed well with the thicker wood if I used the heavier duty blades like the S FS left.

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Of note are the 6 amp power, Pendulum orbital action, and 5 pound weight: Festool is proudly supporting the British Lung Foundation. Now also available as an abrasive net. I used Festool blades for these tests and the blades are substantially responsible for the quality of the cut. This blade, while good, does not give the finish quality of the fine toothed blade and therefore the cut will require more prep work before the surface is ready to finish. The instructions refer to the runner in the front position meaning that the locking screw is towards the front of the adjustment slot.

When I noticed this the blade would no longer move freely. Apparently the pendulum mode requires more clearance than "almost". In my subsequent tests I adjusted the guide with more clearance for times when I used the pendulum mode and did not have another problem.

I did however have the guide adjusted for a fine cutter blade and forgot to re-adjust it for the thicker blade and had the same overheating happen. My recommendation is that unless you need the guide for a specific cut, adjust it to give the blades plenty of clearance so you don't overheat and ruin a blade.

The fine and scroll blades seem to benefit the most from the guide. Base Runner The base runner is constructed from what appears to be cast aluminum and has a plastic skid plate attached to its bottom.

The runner is an integral part of the Trion's dust extraction system. I'm not sure of the purpose of the rear ducts on the runner in the photo at left. It is difficult to see in the photo at right but even though the base is cast, the angle index lines up perfectly. Set the angle and tighten the locking screw. The base runner can be adjusted either forward or back from its default position. With the runner in the front position left you can even make pilot-less plunge cuts.

More on that later. The instructions refer to the runner in the front position meaning that the locking screw is towards the front of the adjustment slot. In reality the runner is to the rear and the blade is to the front. The clear plastic piece around the blade is the chip guard. As mentioned earlier the dust extractor adapter plugs into the base runner.

For best efficiency you should also install the chip guard. If you want to keep your sanity and hearing while using a shop vacuum cleaner to catch dust from portable saws and sanders, I suggest you look at the quieter vaccums on the market. Of course Festool has a variety of vacs which should work great. Chip and Splinter Guards At left is the chip guard and at right is the splinter guard. The chip guard is used to aid the dust collection effort and the splinter guard will enable you to make fine, finish cuts with the right blade The use of these guards does obscure your sight of the cut line especially after they get dusty.

Here's two tips which will help you keep a bead on that cut line. Wipe both the Chip and Splinter Guards with a fabric softener sheet.

This will help keep dust from sticking to them. Take a Sharpie tm marker and color the point of the guard. The clear guard is difficult to see and this will help make it stand out. Different Strokes for Different Folks Alright, I know, that's an corny old cliche but I needed a lead in for this next section.

As I mentioned above, the Trion comes in two styles. The conventional D-handle and the barrel grip. I'm going to be honest and tell you that I still don't know which one I prefer since each has its own merits.

Below is a set of photos of the two styles: What I like about the D-handle is the sure grip. It is the style that I've used all my life and it is the most comfortable for me. It is certainly better suited for home improvement work where you might be using it in awkward positions. For fine work however the higher grip can cause some stability and control issues. For accuracy in following a line I prefer the barrel grip version. It's lower center of gravity makes it easier to follow the line and easier to keep the saw planted flat on the work.

I find the grip is unsure when I'm carrying it but once it is on the work it feels secure. I prefer having the crotch of my thumb-forefinger up against the front of the saw left This seems to give me the best control and the surest grip.

If need be you can grab the top knob with your other hand to stabilize the saw. If I had my druthers I'd have one of each style. Warranty This caused me a little confusion because the owners manual states that the Trion comes with a 1 year warranty.

In reality the Trion comes with a 3 year warranty. The Trion is warranted for defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 3 years and there is no exclusion for commercial use. If the problem occurs during year 2 or 3, Festool will pay for return shipping to you only.

I don't think I've ever seen any product where the manufacturer payed for shipping both ways. Oh yea, if you are disappointed it will probably be because you bought the barrel grip and don't like the feel or bought the D-handle and subsequently decided you wanted a barrel grip. Not to worry, the Trion comes with a 30 day money back guarantee. You can either return it for a refund or swap it for a different grip style within the first 30 days.

Performance I've put both saws through a variety of tests and they do both work well. I used Festool blades for these tests and the blades are substantially responsible for the quality of the cut.

The Trion can also use Bosch blades and I've put a cross reference column in the blade chart I made. I tried to get some good photos of the cuts but was unable to get the quality of photos I had hoped for. Effect of Blade Guide on accuracy of cut The results of these tests were mixed.

It also performed well with the thicker wood if I used the heavier duty blades like the S FS left. The disappointment here is that the fine tooth blades do make a great, almost ready to finish cut but since they are thin they were not accurate in the thicker wood during my tests.

This blade, while good, does not give the finish quality of the fine toothed blade and therefore the cut will require more prep work before the surface is ready to finish. Is it really a big deal in the scheme of things?

No, but it does not live up to Festool's unqualified claim of "No refinishing work". If you look closely at the photo on the left you can see that there is a very slight bowing at the bottom of the cut although in reality, it is nothing that a little sanding wont fix right.

I would consider the accuracy of this angled cut in some very hard wood to be very good. Quality of Cut Now If you want to see a flawless cut take a look at the photo at left. You can't tell from the photo but that cut is burnished similar to the way a good 10" table saw blade such as the Freud LU85 would. I did not use the splinter guard. The angle of the cut was accurate and what I hope you can see is the smoothness of the cut as indicated by the gloss of the wood.

I did learn that the Trion has variable speed for a reason. At left top you can see a scroll cut I made with the speed on high I slowed the blade speed down to "3" and the results were much better. Here's where the dial type speed control has the advantage over the trigger.

With the dial once you have found the correct speed and set it, it's stays at that speed until you select another. If you have a variable speed trigger you would be hard pressed to keep it the same speed through the entire cut, let alone the next cut. Following a line I found that the Trion was very easy to keep to the line and didn't tend to wander at all.

There are a couple of gotchas though. If you use the splinter guard you will have a hard time following a curve because you can't use the pointer on the guard You actually have to use the blade to follow the line for the most accurate cut. With the guard as it builds up with dust seeing the line is a problem. I also discovered that the point on the splinter guard did not always line up with the blade.

I'm not sure why although I believe it is because the blade is not always exactly centered in the runner opening. I could loosen the runner locking screw and make the alignment more accurate. In any case it was sometimes about the thickness of the line off to one side or the other. Once you know this it's easy to align the pointer in relation to the line to get adequate accuracy but for exacting cuts, you should use the blade as the guide.. Plunge Cutting This method intrigued me.

I was curious how a jigsaw could plunge cut without a pilot hole and not bounce all over the place. Register for all services now! Festool is proudly supporting the British Lung Foundation. Trade fairs and events. Passion for high-quality power tools Manufacturing tools for professional tradespeople is one thing. Developing first-class power and air tools literally in the hands of tradespeople is quite another. In the process, we attach great importance to quality and reliability.

Many Festool power tools have already been in use for 30 years — or longer. The long service life of our professional tools is no coincidence. One thing is essential to the successful design and manufacture of professional tools which are high-performing and robust yet reliable and lightweight, such as bench-mounted circular saws, hammer drills and all types of sanding machines, such as eccentric sanders and belt sanders, as well as construction site radios, LED working lights and many more: You have to know, think, feel and live trade.

With your head, your heart and your hands. We strive to make tradespeople successful and proud Thanks to our products and services we simplify tradespeople's work, be it in the workshop or on the construction site, and help them achieve the best possible results more quickly.

Iamges: festool ps 300 eq kaina

festool ps 300 eq kaina

With your head, your heart and your hands. Greater freedom of movement for better sanding. Effect of Blade Guide on accuracy of cut The results of these tests were mixed.

festool ps 300 eq kaina

I prefer having the crotch of my thumb-forefinger up against the front of the saw left This seems to give me the best control and the surest grip. What I want you to do is listen to the saw The Trion can also use Bosch blades and I've put a cross reference column in the blade chart I made.

festool ps 300 eq kaina

I did not use the splinter guard. It's about 6 mebabytes in size so it may take a bit low testosterone problems time to get started. The long service festool ps 300 eq kaina of our professional tools is no coincidence. It also performed well with laina thicker wood if I used the heavier duty blades like the S FS left. One thing is essential to the successful design and ffestool of professional tools which are high-performing and robust yet reliable and lightweight, such as bench-mounted circular saws, hammer drills and all types of sanding machines, such as eccentric sanders and belt sanders, as well as construction site radios, LED working lights and many more: You can't tell from the photo but that cut is burnished similar to the way a good 10" table saw blade such as the Freud LU85 would. A closer look at kain Saws and their Features: